At 14 percent alcohol, it was among the more potent bottles. $16 2014 Lammershoek Winery LAM Pinotage Looking at this one, you would swear that it’s pinot noir, not pinotage. But it is the latter.

“Pinotage is a uniquely bold, multifaceted wine that is intrinsically linked to South Africa’s history, land, and its people – it is a national point of pride,” said Beyers Truter ...