“How was dinner at A.P Bread and Wine?” I asked a friend who had just ... comes with naturally leavened brioche and whipped garlic butter; a fist-sized vol-au-vent is filled with mushy peas ...

Pépin told Food & Wine the easiest way to do this is to spread the butter over a piece of bread. When making laminated pastries, such as puff pastry, Food & Wine says a softer butter is best.