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The rice simmers in water with salt, pepper and onions, bubbling into a thick, hearty paste after nearly two hours over a fogão a lenha, a slow-burning wood stove that lets the flavors deepen.

He planted and harvested the rice himself. The rice simmers in water with salt, pepper and onions, bubbling into a thick, hearty paste after nearly two hours over a fogão a lenha, a slow-burning wood ...