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Mother-daughter trips are not perfect—nor should they be. As a mother, daughter, and mother of daughters, the trips I remember most boil down to moments: the happy goggle marks around my toddler’s ...

Next to the easel on the parquet floor sprawls the golden skin of Fathma, Bonheur’s pet lioness, who roamed freely throughout the chateau and died peacefully here. Two portraits of Bonheur look ...