One of the most enduring clichés in Texas barbecue lore is this: If you’re driving down a dusty backroad and stumble upon a weathered, rickety barbecue shack, you’ve found smoked-meat nirvana.

We flash back to Kian using a rickety-looking monorail that looks like a rusty playground ride, finding a broken-down shack with a fire pit in the middle of the kitchen. It’s been renovated a ...