He’s a dream in the kitchen — and elsewhere in the house. He makes a mean cream-puff tower. And he’s got moves like Jagger.

A robot waiter glides between simple wooden tables ... At lunch, we watch our chef coating prawns in a thin batter before deep frying them. I bite into the lacy crispy coating.

“Play the man, not the cards” says Mugsy, a waiter who dreams of opening his own restaurant in Patrick Marber’s 1995 debut about a group of men who meet every Sunday night to play poker. Yet ...