Shining like a beacon is the neon sign for Handmade Dumplings & Noodles. From the parking lot, we take in the view of the modest dining room, the ordering counter, and the bright overhead menu.

Did the title get you there? Egg Talk may seem uncannily similar to the famous scrambled egg rice brand Danlao, but that’s no coincidence – it’s a lesser-known sister brand of the chain! Like Danlao, ...